Henkel & Grosse, Pforzheim

Founded 1907 by Heinrich Henkel (1876-1941), a goldsmith by trade, and Florentin Grosse (1878-1953), a brother-in-law of Heinrich Henkel’ s, as the “Süddeutsche Gold- und Haar-Bijouterie“. After the first world war it made costume jewellery of brass, Bakelite, aluminum, wood and tintd Galalith. In the mid-1920s, Henkel’s sons, Adelbert and Artur, established business links with the United States (Heinrich and Artur were responsible for product design). In the 30s business  ties with Lanvin, Schiaparelli, Harrods (London) and Saks (New York). In 1937 Henkel & Grosse was awarded the „diplôme d’ honneur“ for a gilt brooch of stamped-out metal at the „Exposition Internationale des Arts et Techniques dans la vie Moderne“ in Paris (40 costume Jewellery makers exhibited). In the 1940s Rem Grosse headed „Grosse Jewels – New York“.In 1955 Henri Francois Poncets arranged for a contract with the French fashion designer Christian Dior (1905-1957). This collaboration brought forth models developed in Pforzheim and in the Paris Dior-Studio („Christian Dior Bijoux“), which was founded jointly in 1955 by Dior and Henkel & Grosse. The 1960s saw the founding of the Grosse bijoux, Grosse sterling and Christian Dior Grosse gold production lines. Four collection were shown twice a year. The designs were the work of Edith Hartmann from 1952 to 1980. From 1976 until 1994 Bertram Degner was responsible for design and since 1980 Karl Heinz Leibbrand.

Cp. Weber 1999, p.239.

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